With most forests, a fast coat of oil-based blot is sufficient to provide superior coloring and end to your job. With pine, this isn’t the case. A fast use of stain will present you with two noticeable flaws: big blotches of dark colour and a change in the colour of the grain. These flaws are caused by varying densities in the board’s surface, which allow for uneven stain absorption. It does not have to be this way, nevertheless. With a little bit of additional work you may stain a pine board with a beautiful, even end every time.
Prep that the Wood
If your work piece has some loose knots, then you can fix them by dripping clear glue around the knot. Cover another side of the knot with a piece of tape to keep the epoxy from dripping through. When you’ve mended all of the knots, then sand the face of your board level using a hand sander with 100-grit sandpaper or an oscillating tool with a sanding attachment. Once happy, eschew the power tool to get a sanding block with 220-grit sandpaper. Sand with the grain to smooth out any tooling marks left from the power sander. Brush the surface of the wood with a damp sponge after finishing your secondary sanding to raise the grain and then sand after again with 400-grit paper. Wipe off your job to remove dust and get ready to stain.
Apply a coat of water-based wood conditioner to your pine board. Once you’ve covered the piece thoroughly, then wipe off the excess conditioner with a clean rag. Check the can for recommended drying time between coats. Following your first coat has dried sufficiently, use and wipe another coat. This conditioner is going to be consumed by the hungry pores of the pine board, which will limit the absorption of the dye you’ll use in the next step. This allows for a uniform end with no blotching or grain reversal.
Stain and Seal
Dyeing is the procedure which will actually blot, or add colour, to your board. You can buy premixed, water-based dyes or powdered dyes. If you go with a powdered dye, dissolve it in warm water, then as per your product’s directions, and permit it to cool to room temperature before use. Brush the dye evenly on into the face of your work piece and permit it to float for a few minutes. After done, wipe it off with a clean rag. Following this first coat dries, use a second to deepen the shade. Apply two coats of 2-lb. Cut, dewaxed shellac to seal and safeguard your stained surface. Sand lightly between coats with 400-grit sandpaper. If you are delighted with the colour, it is possible to stop here; if you want a darker finish, use a coat of glaze.
Brush on a thin layer of glaze and wipe it off with a clean rag. You can find a darker end by leaving a little glaze behind once you wipe, or you’ll be able to keep it lighter by wiping it off thoroughly. When you are happy with your end, wait 24 hours for the glaze to cure and seal it with a transparent topcoat. Your pine board is going to have a beautiful end with rich coloring and no blotches or flaws.