A popular and versatile addition to the landscape, holly (Ilex spp.) Grows in several types, including deciduous, evergreen, tree and shrub forms. There are over 300 known types of holly around the world, although not all are grown in the United States. Chinese holly and Yaupon holly are just two species offering dwarf or compact shrubs using ivy-like leaves and red berries, somewhat like Christmas holly.

Background

The Ilex genus was present in America when the first colonists arrived. The shrub was known to Native American men and women, who preserved the crimson berries and made them into ornamental buttons. The buttons were so popular with several tribes they were employed for bartering. Wood from holly bushes is utilized to make canes, furniture and ornamental scroll work. Holly wood was also stained black and substituted for ebony on some sorts of inlay work.

Berry Production Requirements

Most holly species are dioeious plants meaning that they are either female or male, and each sex creates their own flowers. Only female plants produce berries, therefore bees are necessary to carry pollen from male flowers back to feminine flowers. As long as there are male plants within a 1 1/2 to 2 mile radius, pollination will occur. However, some species and cultivars are self-pollinating. Not all Ilex species are considered shrubs, and in addition, not all that are shrubs create red berries. Those that do range in size from compact or dwarf to very large. Evergreen hollies are found in more temperate climates, typically in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 to 11. Evergreen varieties include festive winter colour at a moment when, there may not be abundant shade in the landscape.

Chinese Holly Cultivars

“Burfordii” or Burford holly is a compact tree with dark leathery green leaves and plenty of bright red berries. It grows to a height of 12 to 20 feet and spreads to a width of between eight and 10 feet. “Burfordii Nana,” a dwarf Burford holly cultivar is a compact, compact dwarf shrub. With shiny green leaves and red berries, it grows to a height of 5 to 8 feet and spreads equally wide. “Rotunda” is a compact and compact dwarf Chinese hollly. It’s dark green leaves that are covered with spines and creates considerable quantities of red berries. “Rotunda” grows 3 to 5 feet tall and wide.

Yaupon Holly

“Nana,” a dwarf Yaupon holly, is a small shrub with a compact texture. It’s small dark green rounded leaves displaying a yellowish tinge when they emerge, and creates scarlet-colored berries. “Nana” bushes grow 3 to 5 feet tall and spread to between 3 and 6 feet wide. “Taylor’s Rudolph” dwarf Yaupon is a very compact shrub, only growing 3 to 4 feet tall. Its spread extends a foot more than its height, creating a very compact look with its fine-textured leaf. Leaves are small, and upon emergence, are tinged with purple, maturing to bright green. This compact Yaupon holly also creates red berries.

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Few things in life are as annoying as waiting for that first green tomato of the season to ripen or your green tomatoes turn red before frost kills plants. Ripening is a complex procedure in tomatoes, making it difficult to predict exactly how much time it is going to have a fully-formed green tomato to turn red.

Inside the Machine

Tomato ripening is a complex process involving tens of thousands of chemical reactions. Pigments like carotene and lycopene are created as chlorophyll breaks down, causing the gradual coloration of this fruit. At exactly the exact same time, acid levels are rising, causing starches in the fruit to convert into sugars and softening the tomato. Under perfect circumstances, this may all occur in as little as a week, however, often requires 20 days or longer in certain weather conditions.

Factors Affecting Ripening

Many factors play key roles in ripening tomatoes, such as ambient temperature, soil temperature, the plant’s natural ability to produce the hormone ethylene and even the number of fruits demanding ripening. Ambient temperatures over 85 degrees Fahrenheit or soil temperatures over 80 degrees would be the primary reasons why tomato plants set the brakes on ripening. Occasionally, a plant is so heavily laden with green fruits that it simply lacks the energy to encourage them all to ripening. Some gardeners remove the smallest tomatoes in an over-burdened plant; raising water and sulfur for plants experiencing hot roots may also accelerate ripening.

Ripening Indoors

Tomato fruits are sometimes ripened inside by craftsmen when sunscald or pest insects are a persistent problem or whenever frost starts to threaten. A tomato picked in the “breaker” point, when a blush of its finished color looks, will ripen fully on the kitchen countertop if kept out of direct sunlight. Tomatoes harvested at the breaker stage contain all of the sugars of a completely vine-ripened tomato and will develop exactly the same taste.

Hastening the Final Harvest

As winter looms and frost threatens, many gardeners rush into the lawn to cover their plants, trusting those remaining fruits will ripen until the plants die. You can speed ripening in your tomatoes by eliminating any green fruits that are not fully developed — these tomatoes will probably not grow further due to cooling temperatures anyhow. Withholding water and fertilizer also will help accelerate the ripening procedure. If a killing freeze is predicted, uprooting your tomatoes and hanging them upside down in a basement or garage will make it possible for the rest of the fruits to ripen on the vine.

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Chinese dogwood (Cornus kousa var. Chinensis), a deciduous, flowering shrub or small tree, is native to Japan, Korea and China and hardy at U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 8. As a general rule, the magnitude of the main structure of this tree is four to seven times the area covered with its crown. Chinese dogwood includes a 15- to 30-foot crown, so its roots could cover an area from approximately 185 to 660 square feet.

Planting

Most Chinese dogwoods are offered in nursery pots or even “balled and burlaped,” using their roots encased in a ball of dirt which is then wrapped in burlap or some similar material. To allow for root growth, it is important to either cut or removed large slits in the burlap wrapping stuff. If you don’t do so, the plant’s roots grow in circles instead of growing outward. Finally this weakens and kills the young tree.

Where to Plant

Plant young dogwoods in sunlight to light shade with a eye on the mature size of the roots and crown. If the dogwood is meant as a street tree, make sure the planting strip between the curb and the sidewalk is wide enough to accommodate the roots. If the strip isn’t wide enough, then plant the dogwood on the opposite side — property or house side — of this sidewalk. The planting hole should be at least twice as wide as it is deep to permit for root growth.

Root Growth

Most Chinese dogwood roots, like those of most trees, which are at the top 18 inches of dirt. Due to this, it is very important to mulch and water the trees, especially when they are young. Watering is best done by drip irrigation, which reduces water evaporation. Mulch, that insulates and conserves soil moisture, should be spread in at least a 3-foot-wide circle around, but not touching the trunk. Mulch thickness should be 3 to 4 inches.

Care

When the Chinese dogwood is established, good root care will ensure it continues to be healthy and blossom freely. Avoid piling additional top soil around the base of this tree. When digging inside the root zone — for example installing garden plants — plant in pockets between roots, rather than cutting through roots. Don’t cut through roots to set up walkways or other hardscaping. Roots that are severed or otherwise limited cannot support the tree adequately or hold the dirt well enough to stay upright in strong winds.

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The phrase “periwinkle” typically applies to Vinca major and Vinca minor. Vinca major, or big periwinkle, is winter hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture planting zones 7 through 9. The common or lesser periwinkle, Vinca minor, might be referred to as creeping myrtle and grows in USDA zones 4 through 9. While both plants are separate species within the genus, they have a whole lot in common. Periwinkles spread quickly, providing excellent groundcover and erosion prevention. Prolific reseeding habit assures that the plant’s return in spring, even in bitter spaces which kill it back completely. You will want to prune the enthusiastic periwinkles during the growing season to keep them well in hand.

Prune periwinkles back to approximately four inches tall with clean, sharp shears in early spring to reduce the plant’s natural trend toward ranginess. Do this immediately following the final predicted frost to your area and before new growth begins. Cut back big, thick, well-established patches of Vinca with your mower set to three or four inches high.

Feed periwinkles after pruning to encourage rapid, vigorous new growth. Utilize an all-purpose balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer. Follow the packaging instructions. These plants need only one annual feeding. Do not over-fertilize them; also much plant food boosts lush foliar growth with decreased flowering in periwinkles.

Pinch or trim off flowers as they fade through summer and spring to convince the plant that it’s reproductive job is not finished. The periwinkle responds to deadheading with ongoing blooming, therefore extending the flowering season considerably and keeping the plant’s look tidy.

Trim back long or lanky stems to points of origin as they happen to keep periwinkle plants looking appealing. Cut out damaged or dead growth as needed.

Prune back runners with clean, sharp shears as they sprout wherever you want to reduce periwinkle spread throughout the growing season. These plants root easily from any stem nodes that come into touch with garden dirt. Pruning runners also promotes fullness. Pull the frozen nodes and discard or destroy them; do not toss them onto the compost heap where they are sure to take hold and prosper.

Shear periwinkles back to approximately six inches tall in late summer when the plants become overgrown or untidy. Do not prune periwinkles during the autumn or winter, as pruning produces flushes of tender new shoots that are easily damaged by cold temperatures.

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A backyard garden pond can come in a wide selection of sizes, from a small water feature at a barrel to a sizable in-ground installation. Whatever their sizes, all garden ponds which are exposed to sun can encounter issues with aquatic hardened and hardened algae blooms, which can mar the peaceful, peaceful beauty of your garden pond. Thankfully, adding shade to your pond reduces excess sun exposure, which can be among the vital factors in grass and algae growth, and consequently will help restore your pond’s appearance.

Add free-floating water crops, like water lilies and duckweed, in amounts which block approximately 40 to 60 percent of the pond’s water surface. At this speed, the floating plants’ flowers and foliage help shade the pond efficiently to keep it cool and decrease sun exposure, and in turn minimize the possibility of algae blooms and weed invasions.

Plant hardy, marginal pond plants around the edges of your pond, like sweet flag, pickerel weed and delicate rushes. Such low-maintenance plant functions several valuable functions, including maintaining debris from falling into the pond (dirt runoff and organic debris boost water nutrient levels and encourages algae growth) and casting shade across the borders of the water.

Add nontoxic pond water dye to the water as you’re waiting for your free-floating pond plants as well as marginal plants to become established. Such over-the-counter goods, available in most pond stores and many nurseries, add pigment to the water, which decreases ultraviolet penetration into the water.

Float squares of black vinyl tarp in the surface of your pond as an alternate to river plants and pond dye, covering 40 to 60 percent of the pond’s surface. While much less visually pleasing, this works well if your pond experiences just occasional exposure to sunlight during particular times of the year and, thus, long-term vegetation maintenance is not required.

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If you are going to let them grow to their entire height, then evergreen cypress trees do not typically require a lot of pruning. These trees typically grow bushy green limbs which remain within a certain shape, making care comparatively easy. But should you prefer to make a topiary or wish to keep the tree from growing past a certain point, pruning is required so as to keep the appearance.

Cut out dead limbs as soon as you find them, regardless of what time of year. Use loppers for then a pruning saw for larger ones. Cut back the branch to the main stem of this tree, but never flush with the trunk.

Cut out diseased or dying limbs once you find them turning brown. If they are still yellow, and you believe you could salvage them with proper watering and added nutrients, hold off pruning. Otherwise, remove the limb back to the trunk, as you would a dead limb.

Shape the cypress tree only if it needs it or you are working to train it to a certain design. Trim the tips of their branches, taking off no more than one third of the length at any particular time. Trim cypress to shape in the winter, once the tree is dormant. Use loppers to make your cuts in a small angle so that moisture will not build up on the strategies and to encourage new growth.

Snip the top off your cypress if you would like to keep it from growing taller. Know that once you do this, it may start to branch out more, spreading wider. In this case, shaping the tree may be required annually. Keep the very best by cutting it back annually to keep it in the size you want. Cut the top branch at a 45-degree angle to keep moisture from resting on the timber.

Cut out branches all over the tree if you observe that the greenery is turning brown at the center region. This is a sign that the branches are too dense to permit air and light to penetrate. Remove select branches, spaced out all over the tree, to make holes to bring about light and air circulation. Cut them back to the main trunk.

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Shrubs can fill in a landscape giving it a lush, established overall look. When deciding the best crops for any place, you will have to have knowledge of their requirements and growth habit of the shrubs, as well ecological and soil conditions and maintenance requirements. Another consideration is the way the newly chosen plants will become an present landscape.

Plant Attributes

As you choose shrubs for your border, keep in mind that their growth habits. Ideal plants for the front of a boundary will be reduced growing with plants progressively taller toward the back of the landscape. Plants at the front of a boundary shouldn’t sprawl; otherwise they will expand over the edge of the border and into spaces where they might not be desirable. Think about the color of their leaves and flowers. In case you have an present landscape in which these boundary shrubs will be integrated, consider these colours and textures can be used to complement each other.

Environmental Conditions

To choose the best shrubs for a sunny place, you have to understand how well your soil drains. This can allow you to decide which shrubs will grow best based on whether they prefer moist, dry or wet conditions. Many shrubs will tolerate full sunlight but vary in their water requirements. Creating a landscape with plants that have similar requirements is recommended. When selecting a tree, then familiarize yourself with the plant’s natural habitat so you can comprehend what conditions are advantageous for optimal growth, and determine if your landscape will be acceptable.

Native Shrubs

Plants that are native to your region are a good choice for your landscape, since they have a tendency to be acclimated to the climate and soil types. Native plants can also be employed to create a landscape with a more natural appearance. Although indigenous plants are typically more drought tolerant and water efficient, some varieties need more water.

Shrubs Requiring Occasional to Regular Water

Plants acceptable for a sunny border but need regular water and well-drained dirt include Australian fuchsia (Correa “Wyn’s Wonder”). This evergreen tree showcases rose-pink colored flowers. Though it prefers moist conditions, it’s drought tolerant once established and is suggested for U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10. Pineapple guava (Feijoa sellowana) can grow up to 10 to 25 feet wide and tall. Recommended for USDA zones 9 through 11, this big, evergreen shrub produces edible fruit. Lavender (Lavendula spp.) Is a common landscape tree growing 1 to 4 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide. Hardy to USDA zones 6 through 11, this botanical, deer resistant plant is a favorite because of its fragrant leaves. Myrtle (Myrtus communis) is also a fragrant, evergreen, deer resistant shrub. Growing best in USDA zones 8 through 11, myrtle will hit 4 to 6 feet tall and wide.

Drought-Tolerant Shrubs

Planting shrubs that prefer drier conditions together can save you time spent performing maintenance. Coyote brush (Baccharis pilularis) is an evergreen that grows 2 to 6 feet tall and 4 to 6 feet wide. It is deer resistant and recommended for USDA plant hardiness zones 7 through 10. California lilac (Ceanothus spp.) Has a variety of growth habits from ground covers to little trees. The blue-violet flowers make this an intriguing addition to landscapes in USDA zones 7 through 10. Plumbago (Ceratostigma spp.) Has deciduous and evergreen varieties that hit 2 to 4 feet tall and wide and exhibit purplish blue flowers. It is suggested to get USDA zones 6 through 10. Rock rose (Cistus spp.) Is a deer resistant, evergreen that displays crinkly, rose-like flowers. Using a height of 2 to 8 feet and a width of 4 to 8 feet, this tree is a nice choice for your center to back of a sunny border in USDA zones 8 through 10. Bush poppy (Dendromecon harfordii) is an evergreen shrub, recommended for USDA zones 8 through 10. It can reach a height of 6 to 10 feet with an equal spread. Sun rose (Helianthemum spp.) Is a low-growing shrub, only 6 to 12 inches high, which makes it a good choice for the front of a boundary in USDA zones 5 through 10. It is evergreen, deer resistant and contains leaf which varies in shade from silver-green to mild green. Rosemary (Rosmarinus spp.) Can reach 2 to 6 feet tall and 2 to 8 feet wide. It is an aromatic botanical that can be deer resistant and hardy to USDA zones 6 through 11.

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A lush and healthy lawn needs water, nutrition and properly balanced soil pH in order to thrive. The soil often will need the application of lime to reduce the acidity level. Lime pellets are a convenient way of program, and can also help increase bacteria action and improve the soil structure. Lime also supplies calcium and potassium to the ground, which are essential elements for grass growth. Lime pellets and grass seed can be implemented at exactly the exact same time to help simplify the care procedure.

Pick a period in the fall or early spring to apply lime and grass seed. While winter is a good time to apply lime, spring and fall are ideal times for seeding. Take a soil sample from the yard to your neighborhood extension office for investigation, or purchase a soil kit and perform the assessment yourself. Most lawn grasses, including fescue, perform best in soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Pelleted lime is used to raise the pH of soils that test lower than 6.0.

Add pelleted lime to the hopper of a seed spreader. Adjust the dispersal rate of the spreader based on the results from the soil test. Employ no more than 50 lbs of pelleted lime per 1,000 square feet of yard for a rule of thumb. Bear in mind that too much lime is often as bad for grass rather than enough.

Go back and forth across the lawn using the spreader to cast the lime. Repeat the procedure in rows perpendicular to the first to guarantee the pelleted lime falls uniformly, avoiding gaps or areas without lime. Lime doesn’t leech with water and stays where it’s dispersed on the yard.

Implement grass seed to the yard after the application of lime. Over seed a yard at a rate of 3 to 4 lbs of seed per 1,000 square feet based on the kind of seed being implemented. Water the lawn thoroughly to assist the lime and seed settle, and soak in the turf.

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If you’ve been finding yourself attracted to scent-free products when looking for dish detergent, there may be a good reason. One of those components in certain scented dish detergents is formaldehyde, which is not a chemical that you want to use to wash dishes.

The Dangers of Formaldehyde

A number of governmental authorities warn about the dangers of formaldehyde and restrict its use, including the State of California, the European Union’s REACH program, the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services, along with the governments of Canada and Japan. Formaldehyde is a suspected carcinogen, and it is also supposed to be toxic to the respiratory system, the liver and the reproductive system.

Toxic Odor-Enhancers and Preservatives

Formaldehyde is added into your dish detergent to enhance the smell, so it is usually found only in scented products. If you don’t locate this compound listed on the label, it does not necessarily indicate the product is formaldehyde-free. Many products contain the preservative quaterniumthat functions by releasing formaldehyde when it is exposed to water. These are not the only two toxins you might find in dish soap. The Environmental Working Group maintains a ranking of dish detergents depending on toxicity and ecological impact, and those that receive scores of A would be the safest to use.

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Buckeye trees (Aesculus spp.) Can all be started out from seed in a pot. Of the approximately six kinds of buckeye trees native to North America, half grow into large trees that can reach more than 60 feet tall, and do not make good permanent container plants. These buckeye seedlings need to go from pots into the ground following two to three years. Three little buckeye trees which average around 15 to 20 feet tall might be acceptable for growing as large container plants for decks or patios.

Seed Treatment

Buckeye seeds symbolize chestnuts, with shiny brown seeds in a husk that’s first green, then brown. Fresh seed is best and may be implanted immediately after harvesting, although properly stored seeds which haven’t been permitted to dry out and have been maintained cold can also grow. In the fall, collect seeds after they’re ripe. Stored seeds require a cold remedy, called stratification, before they will germinate. For your moist cold needed, put wet sand or moist fresh perlite in a resealable plastic bag, then add the seeds, then after removing the husks, so they’re covered by the moist material, and set the bag in a refrigerator for three to eight weeks. Following three weeks, assess on the seeds every single week, removing seeds which have sent out a seed root, then called the radicle, and that means that you can pot them up.

Seeds in Pots

A clean potting mix, like one made from equal parts perlite and peat moss, helps prevent disease and gives good drainage for developing seedlings. Soak 4-inch-wide pots in a solution of 1 part household bleach to 9 parts water for five minutes. Rinse the pots and fill them to within 1/2 inch of the surface of the pot with the potting mix. Use pots with drainage holes. Before planting the seeds into the pots, soak them for 24 hours in water. Remove the seeds in the water after soaking and set them in a five percent bleach solution. Remove the seeds in the bleach after one minute and rinse them off with water. The bleach helps kill any fungus that may be found on the seeds which keeps them in germinating properly. One seed goes in every pot, together with the radicle pointing downward. The planting hole should be a little wider than the seed and one time its thickness. After covering the seed with potting mix, water the pot until water comes out the drainage holes. The pots require bright light until seedlings emerge. Keep the potting mix moist.

Seedling Growth

Later sowing, buckeye seeds usually germinate within 21 days, with a transplanted survival rate of approximately 90 percent. Once the seedlings have many sets of true leaves, then check to be sure they’re not getting rootbound. When the roots hold the potting mix together but haven’t started to end around the bottom of the pot, transplant them into your 1-gallon container, using the exact same potting mix. After they’re found in the larger pot, gradually move them into stronger mild, with an hour or two of extra light each day, until they’re in full sun. Keep the potting mix moist.

Youthful Buckeye Trees

As the seedlings grow, move them into larger pot sizes as needed. Always pick containers with holes. Use an excellent potting mix. When you have reached the greatest pot size you wish to handle, keep the plant by unpotting it every couple of years, pruning away busy roots and inserting some new potting mix. Wipe the pruning shears before and after pruning with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol to prevent disease spread. Each spring, provide buckeyes with 10-10-10 fertilizer at the rate of 1 tablespoon per 6 inches of pot diameter. Sprinkle it evenly over the surface, then dig it in to the upper layer and water the plant thoroughly.

Small Buckeye Trees

Smaller buckeye tree species comprise California buckeye (Aesculus californica), which grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 10. White to pinkish flowers appear in May or June. The plant is summer deciduous, growing into a large shrub or small tree. Red buckeye (Aesculus pavia) includes showy red spring blooms and grows in USDA zones 6 through 9a. It reaches 15 to 20 feet tall. Painted buckeye (Aesculus sylvatica) bears variously coloured spring blooms in hues of pink, green and yellow. Achieving 5 to 12 feet tall, painted buckeye is hardy in USDA zones 5 through 8. These last two species are winter deciduous. Buckeyes have seeds and foliage that are poisonous to people and animals, and the nectar is toxic to honeybees.

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