Category: Gardening and Landscaping

The way to Solve Negative Drainage With Landscaping

Negative drainage may lead to landscape and home damage and should be corrected as quickly as possible. This issue occurs when you have water flowing toward your home instead of away from it, causing cause harm to the base. If the flow isn’t extremely heavy, then an adjustment to the landscaping is an inexpensive choice to alter the flow of water back in the right direction.

Remove landscaping around the house where you’ve got the negative drainage issue. Dig out plants using a scoop and set them aside for later usage.

Scoop out grass around the natural area and set it aside. Remove the grass 6 feet from the natural area or to a whole distance from the home of 10 feet.

Fill the natural area with additional soil to raise the caliber. Add 8 inches of loose soil to lift the plant bed to a height that will force water back in the other direction, pack it down with a lawn roller. The rolling will pack the brand new ground down to a height of around 6 inches above where it was before. Walk the roller slowly back and forth through the surface to tamp the ground.

Add more soil from the natural area, sloping it away from the home. Drop the soil a total of 6 inches to your 10 feet distance from the home to push away the water from the home. Use a level to check the slope, and roll the ground with a roller to firmly tamp down the dirt.

Put the grass back in place in the 6-foot area where you eliminated it. Replant the landscaping shrubs in the natural area and cover with mulch.

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Dry Waterfalls for Yards

A dry waterfall resembles the tumbled rocks found in character. Generally speaking Japanese gardening, dry waterfalls are known as dry cascades, or “kare-taki,” Bowdoin College notes. In home landscaping, a dry waterfall works well in a rock garden or to create a focal point in the yard. This low-maintenance feature provides the landscape texture and saves water.

Dry Waterfall Basics

The space available for your dry waterfall helps determines its dimensions and the amount of materials you need to construct it. The height, width and length measurements of the waterfall’s desirable size function for calculating the cubic feet of rock you are going to need. The best locations include places you will enjoy watching from within your home, such as across out of a bedroom or living room window, or even from a patio area outside. Alternatively, a dry waterfall acts as a decorative feature that doesn’t require upkeep for a problem area of the yard.

Single Cascade

A single cascade suits a slope or hillside around the property, allowing you to utilize the land’s shape to arrange the rocks in a natural cascade. For a horizontal yard, this easy dry waterfall might be just two feet tall in the high end. A place with tree roots bared by erosion produces a dramatic landscape to get a dry waterfall. Using gravel and soil to develop the cascade’s high end reduces the labor of building everything from rocks.

Multiple-Stage Waterfall

A multiple-stage cascade looks like a natural waterfall that falls to various levels, creating a set of descents instead of the stream of the single cascade. This effect requires stacking rocks to create various levels. Embedding boulders and huge rocks in the earth stabilizes them, lowering the risk of them rolling or shifting and causing property damage or harm. A hole one-third the height of every stone will hold it in position. Each rock ought to be assessed to ensure that it’s secure before you include more rocks.

Dry Waterfall Safety and Tips

Working with a qualified landscaper will help prevent potential problems. Heavy-duty leather work gloves help protect your hands. A hand truck and a helper may be needed for transferring large rocks. A strong, wide plank can function as a ramp for rolling heavy rocks into place instead of lifting them. Children should be supervised when they play stone features. If there are dogs around the property, rocks small enough for them to eat must be avoided.

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Decorative Screening Fence Ideas

Developing a sense of privacy while adding a decorative landscape component can be achieved with a variety of materials to complement your home and garden. When planning a new landscape, or if you simply need to increase the amount of privacy through decorative screening, then think about applying vertical and horizontal components. An existing fence can be created more private by inserting woven forests, plants and lattice. Decorative screening can also be useful for surrounding spaces, serving as a support for plants and also as a focus in your overall landscape design.

Fence Fillers

Once you’ve installed a fundamental fence, while it’s a chain-link, picket or decorative iron, you may add a variety of screening fillers. For instance, you may thread plastic forks through chain-link fencing to make a decorative and vibrant display. It is possible to hang decorative planters and pots on white picket or steel fencing with trailing plants that may grow along the vertical stations of the fence, creating a rich texture and often a fragrant addition to your landscape.


Often utilized to hide unsightly landscape components, wood, vinyl and composite lattice also provides a more affordable alternative to wood, metal and plastic fencing. Lattice can easily be employed to display one outside living area from the other, because it is flexible and sold in sections that you may either fit together or custom cut to fit a certain place. Vinyl lattice does not need to be painted or stained, is reduced to no maintenance and may be used for an assortment of landscape projects.


Espaliers have been employed for centuries to grow flowers, vegetables and fruits. As the trees grow, the branches intertwine to make a decorative display. Planting trees in close proximity along a horizontal plane and using supports to train the branches to come together and grow horizontally, the effect creates a living display. Dwarf and ornamental trees are often employed for espaliers.

Woven Waddle Hurdle

Used for centuries as a traditional garden fence, a waddle hurdle creates a decorative display to prevent unattractive landscape components. A barrier may also be utilized to hold vines, adding colour, texture, fragrance and interest to any component of the landscape. A waddle hurdle may stand alone or be used in front of a chain-link, wire mesh or wood and wire fence to bring a degree of privacy. This lightweight fence is traditionally made from hazel and willow stems, is easy to install and requires very little maintenance.

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Basic Country Landscaping Ideas

Country landscaping relies heavily on simplicity, stretching from the plants in the garden to the hardscape characteristics that define garden beds. While formal gardens include manufactured materials, such as bricks, lumber, metal and decorated furniture, country landscaping showcases much more natural materials, such as unprocessed timber, river stone and recycled found objects. The main objective of your landscaping must be to adopt materials that add a rustic charm that occasionally borders on quirky.


Fences commonly found in subdivisions, including dog-eared privacy fences, picket fences and chain link fences, do nothing to accentuate a nation landscaping aesthetic. Your fence must mimic the kinds of fences widely used on farms, such as split rail fences, which have rough-saw edges for a more simplistic look. It is possible to use a split rail fence instead of a picket fence or even install one post with fence rails stretching diagonally to the ground for a frame for a flower bed at a drive entrance. Fresh-cut logs and tree branches also function nicely for rustic fences. Another option is to stack fieldstone to construct a fence or retaining wall which is less than 3 feet high.

Borders and Walkways

When you walk through a country garden, you should never get the impression that the garden features aren’t natural capabilities. Instead, choose natural stone, such as flagstones and river rocks, to make easy stepping-stone trails to direct traffic through your garden. Fieldstones, river stones and even smaller cobblestones work well as edging material to define flowerbed borders while offering moderate protection against weeds spreading into flowerbeds. The cost of stones quickly adds up, so you might instead line a straight flowerbed with natural logs.

Focal Points

The focal points you choose for your garden would be maybe the easiest means to imply a nation gardening style. Arbors and trellises made of tree branches embody the nation landscaping aesthetic better than structures built from pressure-treated lumber. Instead of purchasing glass and metal patio furniture sets, splurge on bits made of bent willow branches to add a rustic feel. You can also use found items, such as antique farm implements and even housewares, to decorate your gardens. Old farm plows add a country touch to a small flowerbed and provide some support to train climbing vines. You can prop old wagon wheels against an outside wall or utilize the spokes to plan a wheel herb garden. With a simple water heater, an old washtub or bathtub may become a garden fountain or pond.


A country garden must include carefully selected plants, while giving the appearance of natural plantings. Perhaps the easiest way to achieve this is to select native plants which need little upkeep, but might fill in a garden space. With the accession of fruit trees, berry brambles along with a working vegetable garden, you may add color to your landscape design whilst enjoying fresh fruits and vegetables. An assortment of evergreen and deciduous shrubs and trees fills in large, empty spaces and guarantees an array of colors throughout the year. Phlox (Phlox spp.) , hollyhocks (Alcea spp.) , daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.) , nasturtiums (Nasturtium spp.) , roses (Rosa spp.) , sweet peas (Lathyrus odoratus) along with sunflowers (Helianthus annuus), combined with aromatic herb crops, such as lavender (Lavandula spp.) , rosemary (Rosmarinus spp.) and thyme (Thymus spp.) Are among the many plants prevalent in country gardens.

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Do it Yourself: Brick Sidewalk Pavers

If you’re planning to put in a new pathway, select bricks to bring a more complex design without raising the problem of installation. Brick sidewalk pavers add a traditional look to landscaping and are used often in walking surfaces. Lay them down along your pathway, and you will be astonished at how the overall look of your landscaping transforms from that one small addition.

Mark the pathway region. Place enough brick pavers around the surface in the desired pattern to discover how wide the path should be to fulfill your needs. Catch a 1/8-inch space between the bricks. Tap stakes into the ground all over the path edges and run string between the stakes to create straight lines to the path.

Remove the pavers and put them around the side. Use a scoop to scoop off the grass if there is any.

Measure the height of the brick sidewalk pavers and subtract 1/2 inch. Remove 4 inches of soil in addition to the width calculation of the pavers. This permits room for sub-material and attracts the pavers 1/2 inch above the ground so that rainwater is not able to readily wash debris on the trail.

Use a level to check the surface. If you’re on level ground, it stands to reason that you wish to maintain a level surface, but you also need water to flow to the either side of this path. Do this by building up the center only slightly, creating a slope into the sides of 1/4 inch for each 2 feet. Use the level that will assist you add and tamp down soil to earn the slope.

Fill in the region with 2 inches of gravel. Spread the gravel out evenly and utilize your level to keep up the slope. Tamp down the gravel with a compactor, walking it back and forth across the region. Check the slopes into the side once you tamp the gravel and add more if needed.

Fill the region with 2 inches of mud in precisely the exact same manner as you did the gravel. Tamp it down and check the slope into the sides.

Start at one side and set the bricks in the pattern that you chose, spacing the brick pavers 1/8 inch apart. Use spacers if required to maintain the spacing as you move. Don’t press the bricks down into the mud.

Pour sand above the brick pavers once you’ve placed them to fill the spaces between the bricks. Use a broom to sweep the mud around, allowing it to fall in between the 1/8-inch spaces. Run the compactor above the surface to place the pavers.

Water the pathway lightly with a garden hose to settle the mud.

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Types of Wood Garden Boxes

Wood is a desirable material for lawn poles due to its natural beauty and endurance. Such poles range from inexpensive plywood containers to pricey, handcrafted hardwood poles. Many kinds are available to match home gardeners’ needs.

Window Boxes

Window boxes are a popular method to utilize wooden garden poles. They include instant visual appeal to the front of a home and are particularly appealing if filled with permeable, flowering plants like ivy geranium or alyssum. Wood is easily painted, so many homeowners paint the poles to coincide with the window trim. This transforms the poles into an essential component of the property’s architecture.

Portable Planters

Wood garden poles are often used as mobile planters. These versatile containers can be full of annuals or perennials and used to liven up a porch, deck, or other outdoor space. Portable wood garden boxes also make exceptional herb gardens, since some herbs will spread unless grown in containers. Additionally, many home gardeners grow vegetables like tomatoes in their mobile garden boxes.

Permanent Planters

Many home gardeners produce raised flower beds in wood garden poles. These permanent fixtures have been used to grow bigger plots of vegetables and flowers. The increased design allows water to drain freely in the plot and discourages the development of fungi and diseases. Additionally, the box produces a boundary or barrier to which a temporary fence is easily attached. The fence may be used to define the region or keep out famished animals like rabbits and even deer.

Special Considerations

Wood garden poles ought to be treated with a sealant to stop the wood from getting saturated with water. Like all containers, they ought to also have drainage holes in the bottom to allow water to drain out. Finally, invest in your planter box by filling it with rich planting ground rather than dirt taken directly from the ground. This will give an optimum growing medium to get your plants, and wholesome plants will keep your wood garden poles seeming full and lovely.

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How to Stack Pavers

Paver stones, sometimes cut from real stone and other occasions formed from stone such as fabric, are a utilized in landscaping to make walls, walking surfaces, planting areas and small constructions. The versatile materials, together with the assortment of textures and colours, add a natural appearance and mix nicely with the surroundings. If you are planning to use pavers to make a short wall, then fire pit or other structure, it is a great idea to understand that basics of how to stack them in order for them to be safe and secure.

Locate the area where the pavers are to be stacked. This could be as a route to make a wall, around a flowerbed to hold back soil or even building something like a very low fire pit. Draw an outline of this location with spray paint.

Assess the width and height of the pavers. Dig a trench in the outlined area that is equal to the height of a single paver and 6 inches. Make sure that the width of the trench is just as wide as the pavers.

Fill the trench with 6 inches of gravel and then tamp it down with your toes or the back end of a hoe. Use a level to make sure that the gravel surface is level.

Place the first layer or pavers in the trench. If your structure or outline is curved, then use pavers with angled edges to produce the curve naturally.

Stack a second layer of pavers in addition to the very first, staggering the placement of the scoop in the very first row. The seams between the pavers on the second row should not lineup with the seams of the very first row. This creates a more secure construction. Repeat with additional rows, but don’t go over 3 feet above ground or you will lose stability.

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The Way to Remove

Unlike running bamboo (Bambuseae) that can pop up across your lawn, clumping bamboo will stay put, even as its shoots multiply. Removal of clumping bamboo, whether to eradicate or transplant, is a task. Clumping bamboo varieties are found throughout the Bambuseae household in Phyllostachys and the genera Fargesia. Fargesia bamboo develops in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9; Phyllostachys species range between USDA zones 1 and 9.

Growth Habits

Clumping bamboo blossoms are actually rhizomatous like running bamboo roots. But while running bamboo roots easily expand to 4 ft or more bamboo blossoms are more restrained. They disperse than about two inches, just enough to send a culm up — that the bud stalk visible above ground. This habit results in clumps of bamboo culms which should be dug up and divided every one to prevent roots. You move the bamboo to a different area of the backyard or give it to friends and can remove the main branches in the original website — bamboo plants that are noninvasive make great neighbors. Your neighbors may happily welcome a bamboo branch, but the area can be quickly taken over by bamboo plants that are running, so it’s best to refrain from giving those.

Digging Up Roots

Given the lengths of the bamboo rhizomes, the job of the culms provide an accurate tool for determining location of the root chunk to you. Cut the culms back to the ground using loppers or a pruning saw to make the main ball manageable. Sterilize your pruning tools using a 10 percent solution of bleach. Visualize a circle round the culms, about two inches in the surface culms. This extra 2 inches compensates for any rhizomes which have spread in the ground without sprouting culms. Cut the soil, after the ring, using a digging spade. Cut a different circle about two inches outside the one, and take out the soil between the two cuts. Insert a shovel in the 2-inch gapand remove the root ball.

After the Digging

Removal of the main ball may leave a rather substantial hole in your lawn, based on size and the age of the bamboo clump. The ground and the hole carefully shoots. Before you back-fill the hole with fresh topsoil remove the small rhizome pieces. The soil that clings to the roots can be reused by you, but you have to select through the soil carefully to remove any rhizomes that may break off. If you wish to relocate the bamboo clump, divide the root ball to about four components that are equal, based on the dimensions. Plant the branches to the original planting depth in a website with comparable sun exposure to the spot, and water to ensure transplant success.

Site Maintenance

A rhizome pieces may stay in the soil no matter you’re when sifting through the dirt. These rhizomes can develop into bamboo plants that are fresh after you remove the bulk of the clump. Monitor the area where you removed the bamboo to get expansion over a period of one. Cut a circle round any fresh bamboo culms and remove them in the ground. This might be as easy as pulling up the new shoots with your hands in case you have sandy soil, light or if the soil hasn’t settled. A garden trowel works, if you establish themselves in the ground and catch the shoots.

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The Way to Install Tile Fixing a Wood Stove

Installing vinyl provides heat protection, texture, color and warmth into the area. Ceramic or clay tiles provide the most protection and are easy to install. A heat resistant adhesive, available at home improvement stores, is utilized to attach the tile into a surface such as cement board. Installation will take approximately half an hour while the grout’s curing time will require up to four days.

The area in which you intend to install vinyl. Purchase tiles and cement board’s right amount to cover the area. Figure in a 1/8-inch gap.

Measure, mark and cut the cement board to pay the area. The cement board is a surface that provides a good base for tile.

Dry fit the tile into position, allowing for a 1/8-inch gap between vinyl. Off the tiles cut on.

Apply a 1/4-inch layer of water-based tile adhesive to the area. Apply no more than the usual 4-by-4-foot section at one time.

Press on the initial tile set up. Push on the tile until it feels comfortable against the surface. Level the tile with a torpedo level. Transfer the tile by sliding it in the direction that is appropriate. The tile will slip on the adhesive.

Place and press a tile spacer against the tile on each edge which will have a tile put against it. By placing it inside the arms on the 14, install the next tile. Press on the tile set up. Repeat the procedure to install the remainder of the tiles. Allow the adhesive. This will take from four to eight hours.

Mix of grout in accordance with the directions on the package. The package will say the ratio between water and grout mix for that brand.

Cover the surface of the tile with a liberal amount of grout using a trowel. Spread the grout over the tiles to maneuver the grout.

Remove excess grout from the surface with the advantage of this grout trowel.

Scrub the surface of the tile with a wet cloth or sponge to remove any residual grout, paying attention not to remove the grout between the tile. Add, if grout is removed.

Scrub the surface of the tile with a lint-free cloth once a day for the next two days to remove any grout film.

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