Lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana) are offered as hearty, low-maintenance plants. Unfortunately, low-maintenance frequently gets confused with no-maintenance. Since most fortunate bamboo plants grow in water, the moist conditions can lend themselves fast to mold and mildew. Without proper care, this mold and mildew may take on your own lucky bamboo and even maybe kill it. A few quick fixes and a few changes to how you look after the plant will remove your mold and prevent more mold from regrowing in the future.
Eliminate your lucky bamboo plant in its container. Run the origins and the moldy areas of the stem under cool water.
Analyze the origins for any mushy spots. Cut away mushy root bits with sharp scissors. Double check to make sure no mushy origins remain, even in the event that you have to trim away a sizable part of the origins. Set the plant to a paper towel and set aside.
Pour the water from this lucky bamboo container and rub on the rocks or mud at the bottom thoroughly. Drain from the rinse water and rub again until there is no trace of mold or slime.
Pinch away any moldy leaves on your own lucky bamboo plant and then toss them away.
Put the lucky bamboo plant in the container, and add the substrate material and clean, filtered water.
Apply a fungicide which includes triadimefon or propiconizole, as stated by the American Bamboo Society. Follow the package instructions for when and how much to use.
Paving stones include a distinctive and elegant appearance to the hardscape areas of the landscape. It’s disappointing when you look out at your lovely patterned pavers and see moss covering the stones. Moss can also be a hazard, because it turns a walkway to a slippery mess when the moss is moist. In case your pavers are in a moist, shady place, moss growth is unavoidable. Eliminate the moss and slow its recurrence.
Shed some light on the area. Moss will not grow in sunny places, so trimming overhanging tree or tree limbs that shade the pavers are going to keep the moss away.
Pressure wash the stones. Use the pressure washer at a low angle to blast the moss away. Examine the spray in a small spot at first to make sure it will not damage the pavers. Don’t linger in one spot; spray the moss-covered place quickly and proceed.
Scrub the moss away with a scrub brush. The moss should scrub off with water in case you do not want to work with a pressure washer. Wash the area with a hose or a bucket of water to clean the loosened moss in the stones.
Spray the pavers with a solution of equal parts water and chlorine bleach annually to help stop the moss from returning immediately. Examine the solution in a small area first to make sure it doesn’t discolor the rocks. Wet the stones for 30 seconds. Wash the bleach solution in the stones with clean water.
Body impressions and indentations are not always a sign of inferior quality. Even the very expensive pillow-top mattress will develop indents; the pillow top is primarily backed by the foam just below it rather than by the a box spring. If you are fortunate enough to have a new two-sided mattress, then just flip it and call it a day. For single-sided pillow tops, rotate the bed and use your vacuum to attempt to pull the stuffing back into place.
When You Can’t Flip, Rotate
Old and specialty mattresses may have two sides: Coils at the center surrounded by foam filling plush pillow tops sandwiching everything in between. If you have an old mattress, then your best option is to replace it; no amount of fluffing will eliminate indentations, that are most likely sagging. If you have a brand new bunk bed with a pillow top on both sides, remove body impressions by flipping the mattress over. For the much more common single-sided bed, rotate it head to foot and then manually fluff the pillow top to eliminate body impressions.
Prepping the Mattress
Strip off all the bedding — this really is a good time to wash the sheets while you work. Keep allergens and dust from flying about as you fluff the bed by initial vacuuming it using a clean upholstery attachment. Wipe down the attachment before you begin, preferably with an antibacterial wipe, to prevent moving scents to your bed. Vacuum the mattress thoroughly, including around the perimeter and in which the pillow top connects to the foam base.
Redistribute the Pillow-Top Filling
With your vacuum attachment at hand, use the machine’s suction to pull the pillow top’s filling back into place. Starting around the outside of the belief, hold the attachment in 1 spot just long enough the cloth sucks upward; pull it up a little with your hand and release. Repeat this step, working your way across the belief and gradually in toward the center. If needed, use your fingers to even out the filling even more. Consider it as working the bumps out of a comforter that got mangled in the drier: Break up clumpy filling together with the tips of your fingers, massaging the pillow top and gradually pushing it into place with the palms of your hands.
Preventing Body Impressions
Rotating your bed every two months or flipping it twice a year will assist in preventing indentations in the bed. For a two-sided mattresd, rotate the bed head to foot each time you flip it. If you share the bed with a mate, try swapping sides every couple of months to even out the wear; even if you are both comparable sizes, everyone sleeps at a different place. Whenever you have the bed all to yourself, then have a similar approach, switching your favored sleeping side — if possible — on event. Outfitting your bed using a cushioned mattress cover also reduces the appearance of body impressionsnonetheless, this increases the thickness of your already-hefty mattress and may make getting your fitted sheet on the bed a job.
Funky, less-than-fresh odors emanating from the shoe rack can make you need to avoid the area at all costs. Instead of pretending the problem doesn’t exist, either zap that Zone of Mysterious Smells back to non-existence using natural deodorizers such as white vinegar.
Go Straight to the Source
If the shoe rack itself smells, some of the shoes or boots stored on or in it probably also have odor issues. Remove each item from the shoe rack and spritz the whole rack with equal parts water and white vinegar, wiping off the liquid after a moment or two using a soft fabric. Inspect the shoes and boots to determine which pair cause the unpleasant odor in the shoe rack. Sprinkle baking soda inside the offending shoes or boots; if the odor is extreme, place a wad of newspaper in the shoes following the baking soda; then get rid of the paper the following day. Keep the whole shoe-rack place — along with the shoes stored there — dry, because moisture and humid conditions donate to the odor. If one particular pair of sneakers smells on a regular basis, sprinkle the inside with baking soda after wearing them, or even fill a pair of old socks using baking soda or coffee beans, then stitching them shut, for a slide-in, reusable deodorizer.
Hardwood floor finishes are more fragile than they look, and you should minimize the use of water when you wash hardwood. For this reason, commercial cleansers are generally suspended in a solution of ethylene glycol or any other waterless solvent. If you don’t have a commercial solution, you’re likely going to need to use water there is no risk, as long as you remember to dry the ground immediately after cleaning. A feeble solvent is all you need to get rid of old wax.
Whether your hardwood floor is finished with polyurethane, shellac or merely a penetrating oil, it requires regular vacuuming to control dust. Avoid vacuums with rotating brushes, because these can scratch the finish. It’s also a fantastic idea to sweep with a broom occasionally to isolate dirt particles out from cracks between the planks, then go over the ground with a dry mop. This takes care of fine dust that the vacuum leaves behind. None of these procedures involve water, and should you perform them frequently enough, you should hardly ever need to clean the ground.
When Washing Is Needed
Dirt has a means of getting ground in on high-traffic flooring, such as the one at the kitchen, and you need to clean the ground to dissolve it. The safest solvent to use is plain warm water, but should you want more muscle, mix about 1/2 cup of vinegar with a gallon of warm water. Although vinegar is safe for many coatings, it might cause some dulling should you overuse it. The very best approach to use it is to mop it on using a dampened — not wet — clean and mop the ground instantaneously with a rag.
Removing Scuffs and Water Marks
Some stains and hard-to-remove marks require more than a brushing with vinegar. It’s easy to remove scuff marks made by rubber shoes by running them over with a worn tennis ball. Cut a cross in the ball and push it on the end of a broom handle, and you wo not even need to bend over to eliminate these scuffs. White Water marks that haven’t penetrated through to the timber will come out with mayonnaise. You must depart the condiment on the place overnight in order for it to work, which means you will most likely need to cover it with plastic in case you’ve got pets.
Dealing with Old Wax
If your flooring possess a penetrating oil finish, you need to wax them to protect the timber, and you may also prefer the look of buffed wax in your polyurethane-coated flooring. Wax tends to dull the finish over time, because it collects dirt and turns yellowish, and that means you need to eliminate it occasionally and wear a brand new coat. You can eliminate wax without damaging the finish using mineral spirits. Wipe it on using a nonabrasive cloth and rub a part of the ground until the fabric you are using no more turns dark; subsequently transfer to some other part. This really is a labor-intensive process, but it’s safe and effective.
Stains happen, and if you suffer from nocturnal nosebleeds, sleep with your mouth open or you’ve got a tendency to romp romantically in bed with a bottle of wine, then they can happen to your sheets and pillowcases also. When life’s little indulgences become stain-makers on your harbor, relax — there is a way to save the day regardless of what went wrong. The trick lies in the pretreatment step, and the faster you work to knock out the stain, the easier it will be to remove it.
Pull the pillowcase in the bed and then head for the laundry room the moment you first observe the stain. Just like ex-lovers — stains left lingering are far more difficult to vanquish.
Expand your affected pillowcase out on a protected area, apply a treatment of liquid laundry detergent, dishwashing soap or degreaser right to the stain and then enable the entire debacle to rest for 3 to 5 minutes. According to the laundry professionals in Clorox, this technique works particularly well on oil-based stains such as lipstick. So, the next time you aim to your beloved’s lips and land on his pillowcase rather, it won’t soften the mood.
Fill a bucket with cold water when it is a bloodstain you’re trying to undertake. Presoak your pillowcase from the salty way for 3 to 4 hours, then use the liquid detergent trick listed in the prior step. Once the salt as well as the soap have had time to work, toss the pillowcase into a washer set to a cold wash.
Lift red wine stains from your pillowcase by dabbing the affected area with a clean cloth soaked in club soda or milk. When it does not get rid of the stain altogether, follow up by carefully dipping the stained cloth into boiling water and letting it remain there for many minutes, as long as the cloth maintenance label indicates hot water will not harm the pillowcase. Using this method, there is no reason why your spilled nightcap needs to become a nightmare.