Rattan is the name for a selection of palm species used in artwork, that is created in a weaving style called wicker. As a pure material rather than artificial, the fibers sometimes dry out and crackle or squeak when subjected consistently to indoor heat or direct outside sunlight. Maintaining your rattan clean and conditioned prevents squeaking and deterioration.
Keep It Moist
To alleviate the annoying noise of creaking and crackling when sitting on your rattan chairs or sofas, prevent the fibers from drying out. Wipe down the rattan one time a week if possible, with a clean, damp cloth and a mild household cleaning product. Light spritzing is acceptable, but excess water can cause warping or weakening of these fibers and a buildup of mold from the cracks and crevices of the woven rattan.
Cover and Protect
Most rattan furniture is treated with a protective coating after the manufacturing process, but the layers can wear off with time. This exposes the fibers to dryness and heat and can lead to squeaking. Use a pure lubricant like lemon oil or boiled linseed oil periodically to recondition your own hair, and periodically apply a new coat of varnish, shellac or a comparable sealant.
With most forests, a fast coat of oil-based blot is sufficient to provide superior coloring and end to your job. With pine, this isn’t the case. A fast use of stain will present you with two noticeable flaws: big blotches of dark colour and a change in the colour of the grain. These flaws are caused by varying densities in the board’s surface, which allow for uneven stain absorption. It does not have to be this way, nevertheless. With a little bit of additional work you may stain a pine board with a beautiful, even end every time.
Prep that the Wood
If your work piece has some loose knots, then you can fix them by dripping clear glue around the knot. Cover another side of the knot with a piece of tape to keep the epoxy from dripping through. When you’ve mended all of the knots, then sand the face of your board level using a hand sander with 100-grit sandpaper or an oscillating tool with a sanding attachment. Once happy, eschew the power tool to get a sanding block with 220-grit sandpaper. Sand with the grain to smooth out any tooling marks left from the power sander. Brush the surface of the wood with a damp sponge after finishing your secondary sanding to raise the grain and then sand after again with 400-grit paper. Wipe off your job to remove dust and get ready to stain.
Apply a coat of water-based wood conditioner to your pine board. Once you’ve covered the piece thoroughly, then wipe off the excess conditioner with a clean rag. Check the can for recommended drying time between coats. Following your first coat has dried sufficiently, use and wipe another coat. This conditioner is going to be consumed by the hungry pores of the pine board, which will limit the absorption of the dye you’ll use in the next step. This allows for a uniform end with no blotching or grain reversal.
Stain and Seal
Dyeing is the procedure which will actually blot, or add colour, to your board. You can buy premixed, water-based dyes or powdered dyes. If you go with a powdered dye, dissolve it in warm water, then as per your product’s directions, and permit it to cool to room temperature before use. Brush the dye evenly on into the face of your work piece and permit it to float for a few minutes. After done, wipe it off with a clean rag. Following this first coat dries, use a second to deepen the shade. Apply two coats of 2-lb. Cut, dewaxed shellac to seal and safeguard your stained surface. Sand lightly between coats with 400-grit sandpaper. If you are delighted with the colour, it is possible to stop here; if you want a darker finish, use a coat of glaze.
Brush on a thin layer of glaze and wipe it off with a clean rag. You can find a darker end by leaving a little glaze behind once you wipe, or you’ll be able to keep it lighter by wiping it off thoroughly. When you are happy with your end, wait 24 hours for the glaze to cure and seal it with a transparent topcoat. Your pine board is going to have a beautiful end with rich coloring and no blotches or flaws.
Old metal headboards are often rough in appearance, with flaking paint, dents or dings, and patches of rust. The best way to refinish a metal headboard is to focus on planning so your new end will adhere properly. Metal headboards may be intricate in terms of detail and design, so removing old paint and rust may be tedious and time-consuming; but most folks can achieve this task themselves.
Refinishing metal surfaces will make dust and flying metal particles and demands using products containing chemicals, so safety gear is required to protect yourself. Wear rubber gloves, safety goggles and a painter’s mask. You should also wear tight-fitting pants and shirts with long sleeves so the dust does not contact your own skin; a sturdy work apron is also a fantastic idea. If you guess that the headboard’s paint finish dates back to 1980 or before, it may contain lead, so ensure that your mask is labeled for use with lead paint. Work outside or in a place that’s closed off from children and pets, and cover the work area with plastic sheeting or drop cloths.
Removing Rust and Old Finishes
Disassemble the headboard if required and clean it with a mild detergent and water solution and a super-fine steel wool pad to remove residues such as oil, dirt and grease. Rinse with clean water and allow the headboard dry. Before you can refinish the metal, the aged finish and any rust patches must be taken off. Scrape off rust and loose paint with a wire brush. Be careful not to gouge the metal with the seams. Paint which can’t be scraped away may be taken out in a couple of ways. Heat guns may soften the paint so it is possible to scrape it from the headboard with a putty knife, but this can be cluttered and time-consuming. Two kinds of chemical paint strippers are available at most hardware shops. Nonmethylene paint strippers may be used indoors since they are less toxic than methylene forms. Strippers likewise don’t release lead into the atmosphere, so if the headboard is actually old, this is actually the safest way to remove the finish. Use the stripper and permit it a couple of minutes to soften the paint before wiping the metal with a rag to remove the paint.
Fix the Metal
When the end is eliminated, any harm and tenacious patches of rust will likely be evident. All these must be repaired before you apply your new end. Sand the whole headboard with fine-grit seams to eliminate remaining rust and to smooth the surface of the metal. Dents or holes in a metal headboard can be repaired by patching with automotive putty.
Prime and Paint
When the headboard is stripped of its old finish and rust, it needs to be primed so that your topcoat adheres properly and to prevent rust. Wash the stripped metal headboard with lacquer thinner to remove sanding dust, oils and other residues. These will inhibit adhesion if left on the metal. Wipe again using a cloth dampened with clean water and wipe dry with a clean rag or towel. Employ a primer formulated for use on metal, and apply a minumum of one coat using a paintbrush or a sprayer. Leave the primer to dry for at least 24 hours, and then apply at least two coats of a paint formulated for use on metal. These paints are usually formulated to inhibit rust, which ensures your headboard keeps its brand-new look.
It is all too simple to damage an older piece of veneered furniture if you try to refinish it; veneers are thin and easy to sand through, and that can be a problem when the piece has dulled with age. An alternative that can turn a throwaway to a conversation piece without the risk of damaging the hairline would be to paint the surface white and distress the end. There is more than one means to try it, but a simple method uses flat white latex paint or wood primer. Other colours used as highlights add to the distressing outcomes.
Start the restoration by eliminating all of the hardware in the veneered piece, having a screwdriver to remove drawer pulls and door hinges. Cover the floor with plastic sheeting and provide ventilation by opening a window, using a fan or both.
Wash the veneer with a solution of 1/2-cup trisodium phosphate per gallon or warm water. This eliminates greasy deposits and also dulls the aged end, which both enhance paint adhesion. Wipe the piece dry using a clean rag.
Prepare a painting solution. If you want to create an opaque white end, the best plan is to apply a coat of wood primer followed by a couple of coats of white paint. If you prefer a pickled appearance, mix flat latex paint or primer having an equal quantity of water.
Apply primer and paint — if that’s the option you choose — using a paintbrush. Permit each undercoat dry; then sand it using 220-grit sandpaper before applying another coat. If you opt for a pickled finish, brush on the paint mixture having a paintbrush and wipe immediately using a rag. This technique allows paint to gather in pores, cracks and crevices and leaves a milky finish on the rest of the surface.
Distress the end after it dries. Among the many approaches you can do this is to hit the surface using a chain, pound it with a hammer or make tiny holes with a hammer and nail. You can also use sandpaper to remove paint in specific areas to make the end look worn.
Highlight the distressing effect by mixing a glaze, using water-soluble glazing compound and universal pigment. Using a glaze that is the identical shade as the exposed wood inside a closet or on the bottom of a table helps make the piece appear worn.
Apply the glaze using a rag, then rubbing it to areas where you desire the most shade highlighting. Allow it to dry; subsequently shield the finish by brushing on a single coat of satin polyurethane.