The Best Way to Refinish an Old Metal Headboard

Old metal headboards are often rough in appearance, with flaking paint, dents or dings, and patches of rust. The best way to refinish a metal headboard is to focus on planning so your new end will adhere properly. Metal headboards may be intricate in terms of detail and design, so removing old paint and rust may be tedious and time-consuming; but most folks can achieve this task themselves.

Safety First

Refinishing metal surfaces will make dust and flying metal particles and demands using products containing chemicals, so safety gear is required to protect yourself. Wear rubber gloves, safety goggles and a painter’s mask. You should also wear tight-fitting pants and shirts with long sleeves so the dust does not contact your own skin; a sturdy work apron is also a fantastic idea. If you guess that the headboard’s paint finish dates back to 1980 or before, it may contain lead, so ensure that your mask is labeled for use with lead paint. Work outside or in a place that’s closed off from children and pets, and cover the work area with plastic sheeting or drop cloths.

Removing Rust and Old Finishes

Disassemble the headboard if required and clean it with a mild detergent and water solution and a super-fine steel wool pad to remove residues such as oil, dirt and grease. Rinse with clean water and allow the headboard dry. Before you can refinish the metal, the aged finish and any rust patches must be taken off. Scrape off rust and loose paint with a wire brush. Be careful not to gouge the metal with the seams. Paint which can’t be scraped away may be taken out in a couple of ways. Heat guns may soften the paint so it is possible to scrape it from the headboard with a putty knife, but this can be cluttered and time-consuming. Two kinds of chemical paint strippers are available at most hardware shops. Nonmethylene paint strippers may be used indoors since they are less toxic than methylene forms. Strippers likewise don’t release lead into the atmosphere, so if the headboard is actually old, this is actually the safest way to remove the finish. Use the stripper and permit it a couple of minutes to soften the paint before wiping the metal with a rag to remove the paint.

Fix the Metal

When the end is eliminated, any harm and tenacious patches of rust will likely be evident. All these must be repaired before you apply your new end. Sand the whole headboard with fine-grit seams to eliminate remaining rust and to smooth the surface of the metal. Dents or holes in a metal headboard can be repaired by patching with automotive putty.

Prime and Paint

When the headboard is stripped of its old finish and rust, it needs to be primed so that your topcoat adheres properly and to prevent rust. Wash the stripped metal headboard with lacquer thinner to remove sanding dust, oils and other residues. These will inhibit adhesion if left on the metal. Wipe again using a cloth dampened with clean water and wipe dry with a clean rag or towel. Employ a primer formulated for use on metal, and apply a minumum of one coat using a paintbrush or a sprayer. Leave the primer to dry for at least 24 hours, and then apply at least two coats of a paint formulated for use on metal. These paints are usually formulated to inhibit rust, which ensures your headboard keeps its brand-new look.

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The way to eliminate Mold on Lucky Bamboo

Lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana) are offered as hearty, low-maintenance plants. Unfortunately, low-maintenance frequently gets confused with no-maintenance. Since most fortunate bamboo plants grow in water, the moist conditions can lend themselves fast to mold and mildew. Without proper care, this mold and mildew may take on your own lucky bamboo and even maybe kill it. A few quick fixes and a few changes to how you look after the plant will remove your mold and prevent more mold from regrowing in the future.

Eliminate your lucky bamboo plant in its container. Run the origins and the moldy areas of the stem under cool water.

Analyze the origins for any mushy spots. Cut away mushy root bits with sharp scissors. Double check to make sure no mushy origins remain, even in the event that you have to trim away a sizable part of the origins. Set the plant to a paper towel and set aside.

Pour the water from this lucky bamboo container and rub on the rocks or mud at the bottom thoroughly. Drain from the rinse water and rub again until there is no trace of mold or slime.

Pinch away any moldy leaves on your own lucky bamboo plant and then toss them away.

Put the lucky bamboo plant in the container, and add the substrate material and clean, filtered water.

Apply a fungicide which includes triadimefon or propiconizole, as stated by the American Bamboo Society. Follow the package instructions for when and how much to use.

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The way to eradicate Moss on Pavers

Paving stones include a distinctive and elegant appearance to the hardscape areas of the landscape. It’s disappointing when you look out at your lovely patterned pavers and see moss covering the stones. Moss can also be a hazard, because it turns a walkway to a slippery mess when the moss is moist. In case your pavers are in a moist, shady place, moss growth is unavoidable. Eliminate the moss and slow its recurrence.

Shed some light on the area. Moss will not grow in sunny places, so trimming overhanging tree or tree limbs that shade the pavers are going to keep the moss away.

Pressure wash the stones. Use the pressure washer at a low angle to blast the moss away. Examine the spray in a small spot at first to make sure it will not damage the pavers. Don’t linger in one spot; spray the moss-covered place quickly and proceed.

Scrub the moss away with a scrub brush. The moss should scrub off with water in case you do not want to work with a pressure washer. Wash the area with a hose or a bucket of water to clean the loosened moss in the stones.

Spray the pavers with a solution of equal parts water and chlorine bleach annually to help stop the moss from returning immediately. Examine the solution in a small area first to make sure it doesn’t discolor the rocks. Wet the stones for 30 seconds. Wash the bleach solution in the stones with clean water.

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The way to Prune a Cypress Tree

If you are going to let them grow to their entire height, then evergreen cypress trees do not typically require a lot of pruning. These trees typically grow bushy green limbs which remain within a certain shape, making care comparatively easy. But should you prefer to make a topiary or wish to keep the tree from growing past a certain point, pruning is required so as to keep the appearance.

Cut out dead limbs as soon as you find them, regardless of what time of year. Use loppers for then a pruning saw for larger ones. Cut back the branch to the main stem of this tree, but never flush with the trunk.

Cut out diseased or dying limbs once you find them turning brown. If they are still yellow, and you believe you could salvage them with proper watering and added nutrients, hold off pruning. Otherwise, remove the limb back to the trunk, as you would a dead limb.

Shape the cypress tree only if it needs it or you are working to train it to a certain design. Trim the tips of their branches, taking off no more than one third of the length at any particular time. Trim cypress to shape in the winter, once the tree is dormant. Use loppers to make your cuts in a small angle so that moisture will not build up on the strategies and to encourage new growth.

Snip the top off your cypress if you would like to keep it from growing taller. Know that once you do this, it may start to branch out more, spreading wider. In this case, shaping the tree may be required annually. Keep the very best by cutting it back annually to keep it in the size you want. Cut the top branch at a 45-degree angle to keep moisture from resting on the timber.

Cut out branches all over the tree if you observe that the greenery is turning brown at the center region. This is a sign that the branches are too dense to permit air and light to penetrate. Remove select branches, spaced out all over the tree, to make holes to bring about light and air circulation. Cut them back to the main trunk.

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The Best Shrubs for a Sunny Border

Shrubs can fill in a landscape giving it a lush, established overall look. When deciding the best crops for any place, you will have to have knowledge of their requirements and growth habit of the shrubs, as well ecological and soil conditions and maintenance requirements. Another consideration is the way the newly chosen plants will become an present landscape.

Plant Attributes

As you choose shrubs for your border, keep in mind that their growth habits. Ideal plants for the front of a boundary will be reduced growing with plants progressively taller toward the back of the landscape. Plants at the front of a boundary shouldn’t sprawl; otherwise they will expand over the edge of the border and into spaces where they might not be desirable. Think about the color of their leaves and flowers. In case you have an present landscape in which these boundary shrubs will be integrated, consider these colours and textures can be used to complement each other.

Environmental Conditions

To choose the best shrubs for a sunny place, you have to understand how well your soil drains. This can allow you to decide which shrubs will grow best based on whether they prefer moist, dry or wet conditions. Many shrubs will tolerate full sunlight but vary in their water requirements. Creating a landscape with plants that have similar requirements is recommended. When selecting a tree, then familiarize yourself with the plant’s natural habitat so you can comprehend what conditions are advantageous for optimal growth, and determine if your landscape will be acceptable.

Native Shrubs

Plants that are native to your region are a good choice for your landscape, since they have a tendency to be acclimated to the climate and soil types. Native plants can also be employed to create a landscape with a more natural appearance. Although indigenous plants are typically more drought tolerant and water efficient, some varieties need more water.

Shrubs Requiring Occasional to Regular Water

Plants acceptable for a sunny border but need regular water and well-drained dirt include Australian fuchsia (Correa “Wyn’s Wonder”). This evergreen tree showcases rose-pink colored flowers. Though it prefers moist conditions, it’s drought tolerant once established and is suggested for U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10. Pineapple guava (Feijoa sellowana) can grow up to 10 to 25 feet wide and tall. Recommended for USDA zones 9 through 11, this big, evergreen shrub produces edible fruit. Lavender (Lavendula spp.) Is a common landscape tree growing 1 to 4 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide. Hardy to USDA zones 6 through 11, this botanical, deer resistant plant is a favorite because of its fragrant leaves. Myrtle (Myrtus communis) is also a fragrant, evergreen, deer resistant shrub. Growing best in USDA zones 8 through 11, myrtle will hit 4 to 6 feet tall and wide.

Drought-Tolerant Shrubs

Planting shrubs that prefer drier conditions together can save you time spent performing maintenance. Coyote brush (Baccharis pilularis) is an evergreen that grows 2 to 6 feet tall and 4 to 6 feet wide. It is deer resistant and recommended for USDA plant hardiness zones 7 through 10. California lilac (Ceanothus spp.) Has a variety of growth habits from ground covers to little trees. The blue-violet flowers make this an intriguing addition to landscapes in USDA zones 7 through 10. Plumbago (Ceratostigma spp.) Has deciduous and evergreen varieties that hit 2 to 4 feet tall and wide and exhibit purplish blue flowers. It is suggested to get USDA zones 6 through 10. Rock rose (Cistus spp.) Is a deer resistant, evergreen that displays crinkly, rose-like flowers. Using a height of 2 to 8 feet and a width of 4 to 8 feet, this tree is a nice choice for your center to back of a sunny border in USDA zones 8 through 10. Bush poppy (Dendromecon harfordii) is an evergreen shrub, recommended for USDA zones 8 through 10. It can reach a height of 6 to 10 feet with an equal spread. Sun rose (Helianthemum spp.) Is a low-growing shrub, only 6 to 12 inches high, which makes it a good choice for the front of a boundary in USDA zones 5 through 10. It is evergreen, deer resistant and contains leaf which varies in shade from silver-green to mild green. Rosemary (Rosmarinus spp.) Can reach 2 to 6 feet tall and 2 to 8 feet wide. It is an aromatic botanical that can be deer resistant and hardy to USDA zones 6 through 11.

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Types of Wood Garden Boxes

Wood is a desirable material for lawn poles due to its natural beauty and endurance. Such poles range from inexpensive plywood containers to pricey, handcrafted hardwood poles. Many kinds are available to match home gardeners’ needs.

Window Boxes

Window boxes are a popular method to utilize wooden garden poles. They include instant visual appeal to the front of a home and are particularly appealing if filled with permeable, flowering plants like ivy geranium or alyssum. Wood is easily painted, so many homeowners paint the poles to coincide with the window trim. This transforms the poles into an essential component of the property’s architecture.

Portable Planters

Wood garden poles are often used as mobile planters. These versatile containers can be full of annuals or perennials and used to liven up a porch, deck, or other outdoor space. Portable wood garden boxes also make exceptional herb gardens, since some herbs will spread unless grown in containers. Additionally, many home gardeners grow vegetables like tomatoes in their mobile garden boxes.

Permanent Planters

Many home gardeners produce raised flower beds in wood garden poles. These permanent fixtures have been used to grow bigger plots of vegetables and flowers. The increased design allows water to drain freely in the plot and discourages the development of fungi and diseases. Additionally, the box produces a boundary or barrier to which a temporary fence is easily attached. The fence may be used to define the region or keep out famished animals like rabbits and even deer.

Special Considerations

Wood garden poles ought to be treated with a sealant to stop the wood from getting saturated with water. Like all containers, they ought to also have drainage holes in the bottom to allow water to drain out. Finally, invest in your planter box by filling it with rich planting ground rather than dirt taken directly from the ground. This will give an optimum growing medium to get your plants, and wholesome plants will keep your wood garden poles seeming full and lovely.

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How to Put Lime Pellets Down With Grass Seeds

A lush and healthy lawn needs water, nutrition and properly balanced soil pH in order to thrive. The soil often will need the application of lime to reduce the acidity level. Lime pellets are a convenient way of program, and can also help increase bacteria action and improve the soil structure. Lime also supplies calcium and potassium to the ground, which are essential elements for grass growth. Lime pellets and grass seed can be implemented at exactly the exact same time to help simplify the care procedure.

Pick a period in the fall or early spring to apply lime and grass seed. While winter is a good time to apply lime, spring and fall are ideal times for seeding. Take a soil sample from the yard to your neighborhood extension office for investigation, or purchase a soil kit and perform the assessment yourself. Most lawn grasses, including fescue, perform best in soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Pelleted lime is used to raise the pH of soils that test lower than 6.0.

Add pelleted lime to the hopper of a seed spreader. Adjust the dispersal rate of the spreader based on the results from the soil test. Employ no more than 50 lbs of pelleted lime per 1,000 square feet of yard for a rule of thumb. Bear in mind that too much lime is often as bad for grass rather than enough.

Go back and forth across the lawn using the spreader to cast the lime. Repeat the procedure in rows perpendicular to the first to guarantee the pelleted lime falls uniformly, avoiding gaps or areas without lime. Lime doesn’t leech with water and stays where it’s dispersed on the yard.

Implement grass seed to the yard after the application of lime. Over seed a yard at a rate of 3 to 4 lbs of seed per 1,000 square feet based on the kind of seed being implemented. Water the lawn thoroughly to assist the lime and seed settle, and soak in the turf.

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My John Deere L110 Blows Fuses

Completing a piece of gear blows fuses it’s important to discover why. Fuses are a safety feature for the electric system, preventing damage to the gear in addition to possible damage to the operator. When a John Deere L110 keeps blowing fuses, the first task is to track down the cause by taking a good look at which fuses keep going out, and determine why.

Explain the Affected System

Usually when your lawn tractor blows fuses, only a single system is influenced. The issue might be in the starting system, the headlights or the power take-off, called the PTO. If the tractor will not begin, it’s the electric starting system, even if the headlights do not work, the problem is localized there, and if you can not raise and lower the cutting blades, the problem is at the PTO system.

Inspect the Wires

Damaged wiring may be accountable for fuses that maintain blowing for no apparent reason. Check the wires for signs of wear, especially missing bits of insulation in which it’s cracked, melted or been otherwise damaged. If you find damage, replace the wires. Always use the appropriate gauge wiring, as replacing wiring using wires the wrong size can produce a risk of fire.

Assess the Starter

If your John Deere L110 lawn tractor won’t begin or if it tries to start but repeatedly blows fuses, the problem is likely a defective starter or starter wires. If you can not see anything when you examine on the wires, then the problem might be internal to the starter. Eliminate the starter and have it examined by a John Deere dealer. Replacing it will most likely solve the problem.

Assess the PTO Switch

The PTO switch controls the power take-off system, which raises and lowers the mower deck. If the switch will not lower the deck, you can not cut grass. If the switch blows the fuse when you attempt to use it and you can not see anything wrong with the wires, then the problem is likely a short inside the PTO switch. Have it checked for electrical problems and replace if needed.

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Does Dish Soap Contain Formaldehyde?

If you’ve been finding yourself attracted to scent-free products when looking for dish detergent, there may be a good reason. One of those components in certain scented dish detergents is formaldehyde, which is not a chemical that you want to use to wash dishes.

The Dangers of Formaldehyde

A number of governmental authorities warn about the dangers of formaldehyde and restrict its use, including the State of California, the European Union’s REACH program, the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services, along with the governments of Canada and Japan. Formaldehyde is a suspected carcinogen, and it is also supposed to be toxic to the respiratory system, the liver and the reproductive system.

Toxic Odor-Enhancers and Preservatives

Formaldehyde is added into your dish detergent to enhance the smell, so it is usually found only in scented products. If you don’t locate this compound listed on the label, it does not necessarily indicate the product is formaldehyde-free. Many products contain the preservative quaterniumthat functions by releasing formaldehyde when it is exposed to water. These are not the only two toxins you might find in dish soap. The Environmental Working Group maintains a ranking of dish detergents depending on toxicity and ecological impact, and those that receive scores of A would be the safest to use.

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The way to Boost a Buckeye Tree in a Pot

Buckeye trees (Aesculus spp.) Can all be started out from seed in a pot. Of the approximately six kinds of buckeye trees native to North America, half grow into large trees that can reach more than 60 feet tall, and do not make good permanent container plants. These buckeye seedlings need to go from pots into the ground following two to three years. Three little buckeye trees which average around 15 to 20 feet tall might be acceptable for growing as large container plants for decks or patios.

Seed Treatment

Buckeye seeds symbolize chestnuts, with shiny brown seeds in a husk that’s first green, then brown. Fresh seed is best and may be implanted immediately after harvesting, although properly stored seeds which haven’t been permitted to dry out and have been maintained cold can also grow. In the fall, collect seeds after they’re ripe. Stored seeds require a cold remedy, called stratification, before they will germinate. For your moist cold needed, put wet sand or moist fresh perlite in a resealable plastic bag, then add the seeds, then after removing the husks, so they’re covered by the moist material, and set the bag in a refrigerator for three to eight weeks. Following three weeks, assess on the seeds every single week, removing seeds which have sent out a seed root, then called the radicle, and that means that you can pot them up.

Seeds in Pots

A clean potting mix, like one made from equal parts perlite and peat moss, helps prevent disease and gives good drainage for developing seedlings. Soak 4-inch-wide pots in a solution of 1 part household bleach to 9 parts water for five minutes. Rinse the pots and fill them to within 1/2 inch of the surface of the pot with the potting mix. Use pots with drainage holes. Before planting the seeds into the pots, soak them for 24 hours in water. Remove the seeds in the water after soaking and set them in a five percent bleach solution. Remove the seeds in the bleach after one minute and rinse them off with water. The bleach helps kill any fungus that may be found on the seeds which keeps them in germinating properly. One seed goes in every pot, together with the radicle pointing downward. The planting hole should be a little wider than the seed and one time its thickness. After covering the seed with potting mix, water the pot until water comes out the drainage holes. The pots require bright light until seedlings emerge. Keep the potting mix moist.

Seedling Growth

Later sowing, buckeye seeds usually germinate within 21 days, with a transplanted survival rate of approximately 90 percent. Once the seedlings have many sets of true leaves, then check to be sure they’re not getting rootbound. When the roots hold the potting mix together but haven’t started to end around the bottom of the pot, transplant them into your 1-gallon container, using the exact same potting mix. After they’re found in the larger pot, gradually move them into stronger mild, with an hour or two of extra light each day, until they’re in full sun. Keep the potting mix moist.

Youthful Buckeye Trees

As the seedlings grow, move them into larger pot sizes as needed. Always pick containers with holes. Use an excellent potting mix. When you have reached the greatest pot size you wish to handle, keep the plant by unpotting it every couple of years, pruning away busy roots and inserting some new potting mix. Wipe the pruning shears before and after pruning with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol to prevent disease spread. Each spring, provide buckeyes with 10-10-10 fertilizer at the rate of 1 tablespoon per 6 inches of pot diameter. Sprinkle it evenly over the surface, then dig it in to the upper layer and water the plant thoroughly.

Small Buckeye Trees

Smaller buckeye tree species comprise California buckeye (Aesculus californica), which grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 10. White to pinkish flowers appear in May or June. The plant is summer deciduous, growing into a large shrub or small tree. Red buckeye (Aesculus pavia) includes showy red spring blooms and grows in USDA zones 6 through 9a. It reaches 15 to 20 feet tall. Painted buckeye (Aesculus sylvatica) bears variously coloured spring blooms in hues of pink, green and yellow. Achieving 5 to 12 feet tall, painted buckeye is hardy in USDA zones 5 through 8. These last two species are winter deciduous. Buckeyes have seeds and foliage that are poisonous to people and animals, and the nectar is toxic to honeybees.

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